Field Report: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Paju, South Korea (11 December 2014) – Part 1/2

On a freezing winter’s day late in 2014, I briefly traded the dazzling wealth and modernity of Seoul for a no-man’s land of guns, mines, and hundreds of kilometres of barbed wire … a place where the Korean War drags on even now in a strange, almost surreal state of suspended animation. Welcome to theContinue reading “Field Report: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Paju, South Korea (11 December 2014) – Part 1/2”

Food Report: Ichiran (Dōtonbori branch, Ōsaka)

I enjoy trying new restaurants and tasting new dishes as much as the next unadventurous chap, but there are times when the tried-and-true exerts a pull that doesn’t simply pass unnoticed. In this case, it was my favourite ramen at my favourite ramen chain … though I can at least claim the excuse that thisContinue reading “Food Report: Ichiran (Dōtonbori branch, Ōsaka)”

Field Report: Kyōto, Japan (23 November 2014)

Our itinerary for the 23rd of November was light, open, and relaxed – it was Sunday, after all. A hearty breakfast to start, followed by mid-morning Mass at a Catholic church in downtown Ōsaka, and then a quick day trip to see the gilded precincts of what may well be the grandest house in allContinue reading “Field Report: Kyōto, Japan (23 November 2014)”