Field Report: Namsangol Hanok Village, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)

27Sep15 1007 South Korea Seoul Namsangol Hanok Village

The clear blue skies and bright sunny weather lasted all throughout this fine Chuseok Sunday – perfect conditions for exploring even more of Seoul’s many outdoor and indoor attractions.

Next on our itinerary: a traditional Korean village right in the heart of this modern city.

Continue reading “Field Report: Namsangol Hanok Village, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)”

Field Report: Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)

27Sep15 012 South Korea Seoul Gyeongbokgung Palace Sojubang Royal Kitchen

As the largest of Seoul’s five royal palaces, it’s no wonder that Gyeongbokgung was once equipped with kitchens that could feed an army. Newly restored a century after its destruction, this former nerve centre of Joseon court cuisine invites visitors to imagine what it must have been like – and how difficult it must have been – to prepare and serve the lavish banquets that the king and his retinue demanded.

Continue reading “Field Report: Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)”

Field Report: Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea (26 September 2015)

26Sep15 017 South Korea Seoul Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung Palace

The grand old palace of Changdeokgung, like the city of Seoul itself, might be likened to an old friend. Having conversed with them a couple of times, and having eased into a comfortable familiarity, one begins to think that there are no more secrets between the two of you … until they spring a massive surprise and reveal a side of themselves that is as breathtaking as it is unexpected.

Continue reading “Field Report: Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea (26 September 2015)”

Home from Korea, a wee bit of admin stuff … and a special announcement

Let’s take things in order, gentle readers.

First: I’ve just returned from a quick 4-day holiday in lovely Seoul, Korea. All too short, as the usual post-trip complaint goes, but this ties in neatly with the third point (which we’ll get to later).

Second: I shall put the current series of posts about my December 2014 holiday in Korea on pause, and along with it, the accounts of my March 2015 and June-July 2015 trips to Japan. We will have a look at those journeys in due course, so no worries – I’d just like to get this latest brief jaunt blogged and out of the way in short order.

Third: All too short it might have been, but this long weekend in Seoul has earned Korea a very special distinction … that of an Annual Destination. In other words, alongside the only other country that previously held and continues to hold that honour – namely, my beloved Japan – and subject to the usual constraints (time, resources, opportunity, etc.), I’ve now resolved to visit this incredibly fascinating and achingly beautiful corner of the world at least once a year.

Cheers all, and please look forward to the first September 2015 Korea holiday post soon.

Field Report: Gyeonghuigung and Seoul Museum of History, Seoul, South Korea (12 December 2014)

12Dec14 004 South Korea Seoul Gyeonghuigung Palace

Whilst sharing many architectural features and elements of design, Seoul’s palaces aren’t just cookie-cutter replicas of each other. Every royal residence has its own unique charm, its own particular beauty … and its own long – often painful – history.

Continue reading “Field Report: Gyeonghuigung and Seoul Museum of History, Seoul, South Korea (12 December 2014)”

Field Report: Sungnyemun (Namdaemun), Old Seoul Station and Donuimun, Seoul, South Korea (12 December 2014)

12Dec14 014 South Korea Seoul Namdaemun Sungnyemun

After my morning visit to City Hall and Deoksugung, I headed south towards one of the Korean capital’s ancient gates – a prominent relic of the long centuries that Seoul spent nestled behind the protection of its formidable walls.

Continue reading “Field Report: Sungnyemun (Namdaemun), Old Seoul Station and Donuimun, Seoul, South Korea (12 December 2014)”

Field Report: Seoul City Hall and Deoksugung, Seoul, South Korea (12 December 2014)

12Dec14 Deoksugung Seoul South Korea 004 Junghwajeon

On a cold but lovely Friday morning in Seoul, blessed with clear skies and bright winter sunshine, Diego sets off on a long stroll through the historic centre of the Korean capital.

Continue reading “Field Report: Seoul City Hall and Deoksugung, Seoul, South Korea (12 December 2014)”

Field Report: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Paju, South Korea (11 December 2014) – Part 2/2

11Dec14 029 Panmunjeom JSA DMZ Tour Seoul South Korea

In a cold, lonely outpost between two warring halves of the same country, there is plenty of silence – but very little peace.

Continue reading “Field Report: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Paju, South Korea (11 December 2014) – Part 2/2”

Field Report: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Paju, South Korea (11 December 2014) – Part 1/2

11Dec14 013 Third Tunnel DMZ Tour Seoul South Korea

On a freezing winter’s day late in 2014, I briefly traded the dazzling wealth and modernity of Seoul for a no-man’s land of guns, mines, and hundreds of kilometres of barbed wire … a place where the Korean War drags on even now in a strange, almost surreal state of suspended animation.

Welcome to the Demilitarised Zone.

Continue reading “Field Report: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Paju, South Korea (11 December 2014) – Part 1/2”