Seoul’s drive to rebuild and reinvent itself has yielded some quite spectacular results – and also reveals something interesting about the city’s relationship with the material legacy of its own explosive, almost uncontrolled growth. On the one hand, there’s a willingness to destroy, to sweep away and wipe clean, as was amply demonstrated when theContinue reading “Field Report: Walking from Seoullo 7017 to Namsan, Seoul, South Korea (03 June 2017)”
Tag Archives: Seoul
Food Report: Joseon Royal Refreshments at the Saenggwabang of Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul, South Korea)
Not being much of a gourmet, I’m usually content to live off convenience stores or vending machines whenever I holiday in Korea. That said, I’m not averse to sampling more refined delicacies every once in a while – and on a cold winter’s day this past January, I allowed myself a taste of the refreshmentsContinue reading “Food Report: Joseon Royal Refreshments at the Saenggwabang of Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul, South Korea)”
Field Report: Three Galleries and a Plate of Dumplings, Seoul, South Korea (29 January 2017)
A Sunday in Seoul can never be complete without the following: Mass, museums, and a meal. Fortunately, the South Korean capital isn’t short of places where one might satisfy the need for all three.
Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the O-Train, South Korea (28 January 2017)
Suwon isn’t all that far from Seoul, but I was happy to try one of Korea’s long-haul tourist rail services even on the fairly short commute between these two cities. Today, let’s have a look at KORAIL’s O-Train.
Field Report: Meeting an old friend at Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 January 2017)
I was feeling quite knackered after my red-eye flight from Manila to Seoul. That said, with the sun high in the sky and the ambient temperature hovering somewhere below freezing (mmm, delicious), I decided that conditions were perfect for a quick visit to an old friend. As one might expect of an anti-social chap likeContinue reading “Field Report: Meeting an old friend at Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 January 2017)”
Flight Report: MNL-ICN on Philippine Airlines Flight PR466
I tend to give most of my business to budget carriers on regional routes, but I’m happy to upgrade myself to a full-service airline when the prices are right or the schedules suit my preferences. On my latest trip to Korea, I settled on flag carrier Philippine Airlines (IATA Code: PR) and, despite various shortcomings,Continue reading “Flight Report: MNL-ICN on Philippine Airlines Flight PR466”
Food Report: Kalguksu and Mandu at Myeongdong Kyoja (Seoul, South Korea)
Piping-hot kalguksu and freshly steamed mandu, with a limitless supply of spicy kimchi on the side. Nothing better for warding off the winter chill after a long day of sightseeing in Seoul.
Field Report: The Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs, Seoul, South Korea (09 February 2016)
Much has been sacrificed – unwillingly or otherwise – in the name of Seoul’s rapid development, with sacred grounds and historic sites that have survived war or occupation unable to withstand the Korean capital’s virtually unstoppable drive to expand. Yet here and there, one finds pockets of seemingly untouched architectural treasures and natural beauty inContinue reading “Field Report: The Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs, Seoul, South Korea (09 February 2016)”
Field Report: Warming up on a winter day in Seoul, South Korea (08 February 2016)
The experiences I’ve chronicled in this post took place exactly one year ago, but I still remember that day quite vividly. It’s amazing how fine architecture and tasty treats – with a drop of hot soup in between – can work in concert to render a tiny episode in one’s existence almost indelibly memorable.
Field Report: Ancient by day, modern by night in Seoul, South Korea (07 February 2016)
Seoul is one of my favourite cities in the world, not least because it offers such incredible historic and architectural rewards for the minimum of effort. Even a simple walk in the park can turn into an archaeological expedition, as I discovered one chilly winter’s day almost exactly a year ago.
Within striking distance 