Field Report: The Autumn Splendours of Arashiyama, Kyōto, Japan (26 November 2016)

The hills of the Arashiyama district are ablaze with colour every fall, transforming the northwestern reaches of Kyōto into a teeming hive of tourists. This particular season – out of the several autumns I’ve spent in Japan’s ancient capital – seemed the worst by far in terms of visitor overload, but it’s hard to complainContinue reading “Field Report: The Autumn Splendours of Arashiyama, Kyōto, Japan (26 November 2016)”

Field Snapshot: Kyōto National Museum, Japan (25 November 2016)

Another short and sweet snapshot post, just to tide us over until the next proper field report. Today, let’s have a look at one of my favourite hangouts in Kyōto … which, surprise surprise, happens to be a museum.

Field Snapshot: Kōdai-ji, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)

Following my customary walking route through Kyōto’s Higashiyama district, I began with Kiyomizu-dera and gradually worked my way north, pausing for the usual refreshment break at my favourite tea house. Further on into the stroll, I entered a well-known landmark for the first time in years, having skipped it a couple of times after myContinue reading “Field Snapshot: Kōdai-ji, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)”

Food Report: Tea and Traditional Sweets at Kasagi-ya (Kyōto, Japan)

The winding, hilly lanes of Kyōto’s Higashiyama district require a fair bit of effort to navigate. Fortunately, a little tea shop tucked away next to one of the area’s scenic stone-paved streets offers the perfect antidote to depleted energy levels: freshly-made Japanese sweets and a bowl of hot, frothy green tea.

Field Report: Kiyomizu-dera, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)

Kyōto’s Higashiyama district is an area I’ve grown rather fond of, and quite familiar with, through my regular visits to Japan’s former capital. Since I first came here several years ago, I’ve seen a few things change – and not always for the better. The crowds, for one, have grown so unbelievably thick as toContinue reading “Field Report: Kiyomizu-dera, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)”

Field Report: Autumn Colours at Daigo-ji and Sanbō-in, Kyōto, Japan (14 November 2016)

Having known from my previous autumn trips that late November is a better time for fall colours in large parts of central Honshū (except for higher elevations), I wasn’t expecting to see all that much at this early stage of my journey. Nonetheless, the kōyō wave had already begun to transform pockets of foliage inContinue reading “Field Report: Autumn Colours at Daigo-ji and Sanbō-in, Kyōto, Japan (14 November 2016)”

Field Report: Fukuchiyama Castle, Kyōto Prefecture, Japan (13 November 2016)

My love of Japanese castles takes me to the city of Fukuchiyama northwest of Kyōto, where an ancient fortress demolished during the Meiji Restoration now again stands proudly over the lands it once controlled.

Field Report: Kyōto Railway Museum, Japan (12 November 2016)

When it comes to Japan, my main areas of interest are castles and trains – and no visit is ever complete without me adding to my knowledge of one or the other (usually both). In this post, we turn the spotlight upon the country’s newest major railway museum: a veritable playground for train-obsessed chaps likeContinue reading “Field Report: Kyōto Railway Museum, Japan (12 November 2016)”

Field Report: Autumn Colours at Tōfuku-ji, Kyōto, Japan (12 November 2016)

Mid to late November is usually a good time to enjoy autumn colours in parts of the Kansai region, though the trees in some places tend to put on their gorgeous fall leaves a little earlier than others. On the second day of my 12th trip to Japan, I sought out an ancient temple inContinue reading “Field Report: Autumn Colours at Tōfuku-ji, Kyōto, Japan (12 November 2016)”

Field Report: Kinosaki Onsen and Kyōto, Japan (09 July 2015)

Who on earth travels a great distance to see an onsen town and doesn’t even bother trying the onsen? (This is where I sheepishly raise my hand and attempt an explanation.)