Field Report: Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea (26 September 2015)

The grand old palace of Changdeokgung, like the city of Seoul itself, might be likened to an old friend. Having conversed with them a couple of times, and having eased into a comfortable familiarity, one begins to think that there are no more secrets between the two of you … until they spring a massiveContinue reading “Field Report: Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea (26 September 2015)”

Field Report: Seoul (10 February 2013) – Part 4/4

Walking deeper into the garden, I was struck by the silence and the stillness of the snow-covered scenery all around me. We were right in the heart of Seoul, one of the world’s busiest cities, yet standing here I might as well have been hiking through a remote stretch of countryside far beyond the reachContinue reading “Field Report: Seoul (10 February 2013) – Part 4/4”

Field Report: Seoul (10 February 2013) – Part 3/4

Gyeongbokgung was nice, very nice indeed – in a straight-laced, straight-lined, right-angled sort of way. The neatly planned succession of gateways and courtyards strung along rigidly laid axes makes for an impressive statement of power and order, consistent with the sort of ground plan one might encounter in other East Asian palace complexes (the ForbiddenContinue reading “Field Report: Seoul (10 February 2013) – Part 3/4”