Within striking distance

Field Report: Kyū-Iwasaki-tei Teien, Tōkyō, Japan (02 October 2016)

Relatively little has survived from Tōkyō’s golden age of Western-style architecture, when the rapid wave of modernisation that swept across Japan during the Meiji and Taishō eras triggered the construction of buildings that would not have looked out of place in the great capitals of Europe. Many of these later succumbed to war or redevelopment, but a few precious remnants yet remain, amongst which is a grand house of the late 19th century located a short walk from Ueno Park.

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Food Report: Tonkotsu Rāmen at Kyūshū Jangara (Tōkyō, Japan)

As an unadventurous creature of unsophisticated habit, I have a go-to place – Ichiran by name – which I search for almost instinctively whenever I’m struck by rāmen cravings in Japan. That said, I do treat my taste buds to a bit of variety from time to time. On this particular lunch adventure, I tracked down a noodle joint in the Harajuku area where (so I’ve read and heard) I might experience a twist to my favoured Hakata-style rāmen.

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Field Report: A Long Walk Across the Low City in Tōkyō, Japan (02 October 2016) – Part 2/2

Tōkyō’ modern skyline and iconic public architecture are well worth seeing on any trip to Japan, but so are the quiet, low-rise neighbourhoods that make up its old Shitamachi – not least because of the glimpse they allow into the everyday, unvarnished side of life in the Japanese capital.

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Field Report: A Long Walk Across the Low City in Tōkyō, Japan (02 October 2016) – Part 1/2

On my previous trips to Japan, I’ve come to know the Tōkyō of soaring skyscrapers, of popular culture, of old stereotypes and unstoppable evolution. Now I’m setting out to discover a different, grittier side of the city: the Tōkyō of the backstreets and low-rise neighbourhoods, of old houses and quiet alleyways, of hidden shrines and labyrinthine graveyards.

Welcome to the Shitamachi.

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Field Report: Kawagoe, Japan (01 October 2016)

With Japan a mere four hours or so from Manila, and with the intense competition amongst airlines plying this lucrative route driving fares down to almost dirt-cheap levels, an overnight weekend trip to Tōkyō no longer sounds as crazy as it probably should. Believe me, I’d know – I did precisely that on the weekend of 01-02 October 2016.

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Field Snapshots: A snowy day at Nikkō, Japan (12 March 2016)

Since I don’t plan to do any detailed coverage of last spring’s family holiday in Japan, here’s a (mostly) commentary-free gallery of images taken with my mobile phone on a quick day trip to the historic town of Nikkō, in Tochigi Prefecture.

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Food Report: Kalguksu and Mandu at Myeongdong Kyoja (Seoul, South Korea)

Piping-hot kalguksu and freshly steamed mandu, with a limitless supply of spicy kimchi on the side. Nothing better for warding off the winter chill after a long day of sightseeing in Seoul.

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Field Report: The Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs, Seoul, South Korea (09 February 2016)

Much has been sacrificed – unwillingly or otherwise – in the name of Seoul’s rapid development, with sacred grounds and historic sites that have survived war or occupation unable to withstand the Korean capital’s virtually unstoppable drive to expand. Yet here and there, one finds pockets of seemingly untouched architectural treasures and natural beauty in the midst of an ocean of concrete: islands of history that have managed to hang on, perhaps even thrive, as the explosive growth of the modern metropolis gnaws away at their boundaries.

One such survivor sits right within the borders of Gangnam-gu, and it was the first stop of the last day of this winter holiday in Seoul.

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Field Report: Warming up on a winter day in Seoul, South Korea (08 February 2016)

The experiences I’ve chronicled in this post took place exactly one year ago, but I still remember that day quite vividly. It’s amazing how fine architecture and tasty treats – with a drop of hot soup in between – can work in concert to render a tiny episode in one’s existence almost indelibly memorable.

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Field Report: Ancient by day, modern by night in Seoul, South Korea (07 February 2016)

Seoul is one of my favourite cities in the world, not least because it offers such incredible historic and architectural rewards for the minimum of effort. Even a simple walk in the park can turn into an archaeological expedition, as I discovered one chilly winter’s day almost exactly a year ago.

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