I like travelling alone. That way, I've only got one idiot to worry about.
Even though I travel to Korea at least once every year, I still wasn’t sure what to expect on my very first trip to Busan (부산), a place far beyond those parts of the country I’m most familiar with (namely Seoul and Gyeonggi-do). Yet after spending just three days in this incredible port city on Korea’s southeastern coast, I emerged absolutely sure of one thing: I can’t wait to go back.
Here’s day one.
Continue reading “Field Report: Three Days in Busan, South Korea – Day 1 (04 June 2017)”
I’ve taken high-speed rail services countless times in Japan, but not (until recently) in Korea, even though I holiday there at least once every year. That changed one bright summer’s day this past June, when I broke away from Seoul to spend a few days in faraway Busan – and rode Korea’s blazingly fast KTX to get there.
And I’m happy to report that there wasn’t a single zombie in sight. There, I’ve said it. No more 부산행-derived jokes, okay? (^_^)
Continue reading “Rail Report: Seoul to Busan on the KTX, South Korea (04 June 2017)”
Seoul’s drive to rebuild and reinvent itself has yielded some quite spectacular results – and also reveals something interesting about the city’s relationship with the material legacy of its own explosive, almost uncontrolled growth. On the one hand, there’s a willingness to destroy, to sweep away and wipe clean, as was amply demonstrated when the local authorities demolished a major highway in order to excavate and restore a long-lost stream. On the other hand, there’s an openness to renewal, as I saw recently when the city elected to retain (rather than obliterate) another outdated piece of infrastructure, choosing instead to transform it into something that fits snugly within the urban fabric of a greener, more pedestrian-orientated capital.
Not being much of a gourmet, I’m usually content to live off convenience stores or vending machines whenever I holiday in Korea. That said, I’m not averse to sampling more refined delicacies every once in a while – and on a cold winter’s day this past January, I allowed myself a taste of the refreshments that Korean monarchs might have enjoyed when they were in the mood for a snack.
A Sunday in Seoul can never be complete without the following: Mass, museums, and a meal. Fortunately, the South Korean capital isn’t short of places where one might satisfy the need for all three.
Suwon (수원) is one of my favourite day trip destinations out of Seoul, mainly because of its breathtaking Joseon-era stone walls. And these walls really do take one’s breath away: not just because they look awesome, but because hiking all the way around them tends to leave unfit couch potatoes like me gasping for air.
Suwon isn’t all that far from Seoul, but I was happy to try one of Korea’s long-haul tourist rail services even on the fairly short commute between these two cities. Today, let’s have a look at KORAIL’s O-Train.
Continue reading “Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the O-Train, South Korea (28 January 2017)”
I was feeling quite knackered after my red-eye flight from Manila to Seoul. That said, with the sun high in the sky and the ambient temperature hovering somewhere below freezing (mmm, delicious), I decided that conditions were perfect for a quick visit to an old friend. As one might expect of an anti-social chap like me, the friend in question isn’t a person, but a historic landmark: the sprawling royal palace at the heart of the South Korean capital.
The hills of the Arashiyama district are ablaze with colour every fall, transforming the northwestern reaches of Kyōto into a teeming hive of tourists. This particular season – out of the several autumns I’ve spent in Japan’s ancient capital – seemed the worst by far in terms of visitor overload, but it’s hard to complain when the trees are so beautiful, the air is so fresh, the skies are so clear … and the roasted sweet potatoes are so incredibly delicious.
Another short and sweet snapshot post, just to tide us over until the next proper field report. Today, let’s have a look at one of my favourite hangouts in Kyōto … which, surprise surprise, happens to be a museum.
Continue reading “Field Snapshot: Kyōto National Museum, Japan (25 November 2016)”
Within striking distance