Author Archives: Diego

Rail Report: Seoul to Busan on the KTX, South Korea (04 June 2017)

I’ve taken high-speed rail services countless times in Japan, but not (until recently) in Korea, even though I holiday there at least once every year. That changed one bright summer’s day this past June, when I broke away from Seoul to spend a few days in faraway Busan – and rode Korea’s blazingly fast KTXContinue reading “Rail Report: Seoul to Busan on the KTX, South Korea (04 June 2017)”

Field Report: Walking from Seoullo 7017 to Namsan, Seoul, South Korea (03 June 2017)

Seoul’s drive to rebuild and reinvent itself has yielded some quite spectacular results – and also reveals something interesting about the city’s relationship with the material legacy of its own explosive, almost uncontrolled growth. On the one hand, there’s a willingness to destroy, to sweep away and wipe clean, as was amply demonstrated when theContinue reading “Field Report: Walking from Seoullo 7017 to Namsan, Seoul, South Korea (03 June 2017)”

Food Report: Joseon Royal Refreshments at the Saenggwabang of Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul, South Korea)

Not being much of a gourmet, I’m usually content to live off convenience stores or vending machines whenever I holiday in Korea. That said, I’m not averse to sampling more refined delicacies every once in a while – and on a cold winter’s day this past January, I allowed myself a taste of the refreshmentsContinue reading “Food Report: Joseon Royal Refreshments at the Saenggwabang of Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul, South Korea)”

Field Report: Three Galleries and a Plate of Dumplings, Seoul, South Korea (29 January 2017)

A Sunday in Seoul can never be complete without the following: Mass, museums, and a meal. Fortunately, the South Korean capital isn’t short of places where one might satisfy the need for all three.

Field Report: Hiking along the eastern walls of Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon, South Korea (28 January 2017)

Suwon (수원) is one of my favourite day trip destinations out of Seoul, mainly because of its breathtaking Joseon-era stone walls. And these walls really do take one’s breath away: not just because they look awesome, but because hiking all the way around them tends to leave unfit couch potatoes like me gasping for air.

Field Report: Meeting an old friend at Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 January 2017)

I was feeling quite knackered after my red-eye flight from Manila to Seoul. That said, with the sun high in the sky and the ambient temperature hovering somewhere below freezing (mmm, delicious), I decided that conditions were perfect for a quick visit to an old friend. As one might expect of an anti-social chap likeContinue reading “Field Report: Meeting an old friend at Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 January 2017)”

Field Report: The Autumn Splendours of Arashiyama, Kyōto, Japan (26 November 2016)

The hills of the Arashiyama district are ablaze with colour every fall, transforming the northwestern reaches of Kyōto into a teeming hive of tourists. This particular season – out of the several autumns I’ve spent in Japan’s ancient capital – seemed the worst by far in terms of visitor overload, but it’s hard to complainContinue reading “Field Report: The Autumn Splendours of Arashiyama, Kyōto, Japan (26 November 2016)”

Field Snapshot: Kyōto National Museum, Japan (25 November 2016)

Another short and sweet snapshot post, just to tide us over until the next proper field report. Today, let’s have a look at one of my favourite hangouts in Kyōto … which, surprise surprise, happens to be a museum.

Field Snapshot: Kōdai-ji, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)

Following my customary walking route through Kyōto’s Higashiyama district, I began with Kiyomizu-dera and gradually worked my way north, pausing for the usual refreshment break at my favourite tea house. Further on into the stroll, I entered a well-known landmark for the first time in years, having skipped it a couple of times after myContinue reading “Field Snapshot: Kōdai-ji, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)”