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Field Report: Two Days in Gyeongju, South Korea – Day 2 Part 2 (17 February 2018)
During the last few hours of my first visit to Gyeongju, I explored the ruins of what had once been amongst Silla’s greatest temples – now reduced to a grassy field littered with weathered stones and the ghostly outlines of long-lost buildings. Empty, silent, desolate … and for all that, a fitting canvas upon which…
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Field Report: Two Days in Gyeongju, South Korea – Day 2 Part 1 (17 February 2018)
In my last few posts (here, here, and here), we’ve seen some of the remarkable architectural relics of the long-lost Kingdom of Silla. Now we’re off to visit one of Korea’s finest museums, where we can admire and appreciate other historic treasures that might be far smaller in size, but are the equal of any…
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Field Report: Two Days in Gyeongju, South Korea – Day 1 Part 3 (16 February 2018)
Evening light-ups can be a hit-or-miss affair, especially where historic sites are concerned. That said, I’ll admit that it’s interesting to reflect on how the kings and exalted personages of Silla, with all of their untold wealth and unbridled power, could never have enjoyed the nighttime vistas (courtesy of modern-day electric lighting) that we simple…
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Field Report: Two Days in Gyeongju, South Korea – Day 1 Part 2 (16 February 2018)
Earlier in the day, I’d seen how the ruling class of Silla once lived in settings of unparalleled luxury over a thousand years ago, as epitomised by the remains of their gardens and palaces. As I walked amongst the silent mounds of earth marking their graves, it became clear to me that they died surrounded…
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Field Report: Two Days in Gyeongju, South Korea – Day 1 Part 1 (16 February 2018)
Some places grow on you after more than one visit. Others, you fall in love with at first sight. In the case of Gyeongju, where the remnants of a long-lost empire lie upon the ground so thickly that the very act of taking a step feels like turning a page in a history book, I…
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