Rail Report: Trainspotting my way around Shikoku, Japan (19-23 November 2016)

I’ve logged thousands of miles of travel through the years in pursuit of the two Japanese things that interest me the most: trains and castles. Needless to say, I find a journey especially rewarding when I can satisfy my thirst for both in one fell swoop – and there are few places better endowed inContinue reading “Rail Report: Trainspotting my way around Shikoku, Japan (19-23 November 2016)”

Field Report: The Open-air Architectural Museum that is Matsuyama, Japan (23 November 2016)

I’ve developed a habit of returning to my favourite places in Japan every now and then: partly to ensconce myself in the familiar, and partly to make fresh discoveries. Matsuyama was no exception to this pattern. And as I pounded the pavements of this corner of Shikoku one afternoon in November, I found a greatContinue reading “Field Report: The Open-air Architectural Museum that is Matsuyama, Japan (23 November 2016)”

Field Report: Ōzu Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (23 November 2016)

I’ve mentioned before how some of Japan’s long-destroyed Edo Period castles are now being reconstructed using historically faithful materials and techniques. This stands in contrast to the mid-20th century trend of building castle replicas out of concrete and fitting them with modern interiors. Last autumn, I visited one of the finest examples of the newContinue reading “Field Report: Ōzu Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (23 November 2016)”

Field Report: The Kamihaga Residence, Uchiko, Japan (22 November 2016)

In my previous post, we saw some of the splendid buildings that the town of Uchiko was endowed with by its leading families, back during its heyday as a centre for sumac wax production. Now let’s take a look at one more architectural treasure, and at the same time learn about the industry that onceContinue reading “Field Report: The Kamihaga Residence, Uchiko, Japan (22 November 2016)”

Field Report: Uchiko, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (22 November 2016)

The town of Uchiko, in Japan’s Ehime Prefecture, once enjoyed great prosperity from the production of sumac wax. Although the industry died out early in the last century, some of the grand houses and public buildings that were erected during that golden age still stand: beautiful reminders of a time when this quiet corner ofContinue reading “Field Report: Uchiko, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (22 November 2016)”

Field Report: Uwajima Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (22 November 2016)

There are just twelve original castles remaining in Japan, four of which are on the island of Shikoku. I visited one of them (Matsuyama) several years ago, and I added two more to the tally (Kōchi and Marugame) earlier during this present trip. Today, let’s tick the last Shikoku item off our list – andContinue reading “Field Report: Uwajima Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (22 November 2016)”

Field Report: Imabari Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (21 November 2016)

I’ve logged thousands of miles of travel through the years in pursuit of the two Japanese things that interest me the most: trains and castles. Needless to say, I find a journey especially rewarding when I can satisfy my thirst for both in one fell swoop – and there are few places better endowed inContinue reading “Field Report: Imabari Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (21 November 2016)”

Field Report: Marugame Castle, Kagawa Prefecture, Japan (19 November 2016)

In my previous post, we had a look at one of Japan’s twelve remaining original castles. On my way back to Okayama, I managed to squeeze in one more. I now regret making that brief stopover – not because the castle I saw was disappointing, but because it was so flipping awesome that I can’tContinue reading “Field Report: Marugame Castle, Kagawa Prefecture, Japan (19 November 2016)”

Field Report: Kōchi Castle, Japan (19 November 2016)

There are scores of castles scattered all across Japan, but only twelve of them still have their original tenshu (main tower); the rest have either modern-day replicas or empty, ruined foundations. Even rarer are those that have all of the structures in their honmaru (innermost enclosure) intact, tenshu and palace and defensive towers and all.Continue reading “Field Report: Kōchi Castle, Japan (19 November 2016)”

Field Report: Takamatsu Castle, Japan (10 July 2015)

Sometimes, it takes a bit of work to seek out the historic gems scattered across your typical Japanese metropolis, hidden as they are behind decades of unrestrained development and bland concrete modernity. But here in Takamatsu, a short stroll from the central railway station is all a visitor needs to discover one of the city’sContinue reading “Field Report: Takamatsu Castle, Japan (10 July 2015)”