Korea 2015 – Within striking distance

Field Report: Cheongwadae Sarangchae and Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)

If things had turned out a little differently, and Korea were still a monarchy (albeit a constitutional one) in our own day and age, the king and the president would have ended up as next-door neighbours. Whether they’d have been the sort of neighbours to share a pint and swap power tools – or tradeContinue reading “Field Report: Cheongwadae Sarangchae and Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)”

Field Report: Cheonggyecheon and Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)

Seoul is a splendid monument to its own long and rich history, with various features of the urban landscape bearing witness to the march of many centuries across the Korean capital. Today, let’s combine a refreshing morning stroll with an educational history walk as we learn more about this amazing city through the relics thatContinue reading “Field Report: Cheonggyecheon and Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)”

Field Report: Korean Folk Village, Yongin, South Korea (28 September 2015)

Visiting Seoul’s lavish royal palaces might help one imagine the lifestyles of kings and aristocrats … but what was the daily grind like for mere commoners and country folk of days gone by? Today, we’re off to see a theme park with a difference: one that transports people not to the Joseon of court ceremoniesContinue reading “Field Report: Korean Folk Village, Yongin, South Korea (28 September 2015)”

Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the S-train, South Korea (28 September 2015)

Regular visitors are probably well aware that Diego is something of a railfan. That said, in spite of all the train journeys I’ve taken through the years (particularly in Japan), I’ve tended to fold those accounts into Field Reports rather than write separate posts about them. Even though that pattern will continue for most ordinaryContinue reading “Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the S-train, South Korea (28 September 2015)”

Field Report: National Museum of Korea, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)

I had a great time at Namsangol Hanok Village, but with the sun high in the sky and the air getting a wee bit too warm for comfort, I took refuge in one of Seoul’s largest indoor attractions … deliciously air-conditioned, of course. Oh, and did I mention that it’s free?

Field Report: Namsangol Hanok Village, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)

The clear blue skies and bright sunny weather lasted all throughout this fine Chuseok Sunday – perfect conditions for exploring even more of Seoul’s many outdoor and indoor attractions. Next on our itinerary: a traditional Korean village right in the heart of this modern city.

Field Report: Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)

As the largest of Seoul’s five royal palaces, it’s no wonder that Gyeongbokgung was once equipped with kitchens that could feed an army. Newly restored a century after its destruction, this former nerve centre of Joseon court cuisine invites visitors to imagine what it must have been like – and how difficult it must haveContinue reading “Field Report: Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)”

Field Report: Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea (26 September 2015)

The grand old palace of Changdeokgung, like the city of Seoul itself, might be likened to an old friend. Having conversed with them a couple of times, and having eased into a comfortable familiarity, one begins to think that there are no more secrets between the two of you … until they spring a massiveContinue reading “Field Report: Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea (26 September 2015)”