I’ve logged thousands of miles of travel through the years in pursuit of the two Japanese things that interest me the most: trains and castles. Needless to say, I find a journey especially rewarding when I can satisfy my thirst for both in one fell swoop – and there are few places better endowed inContinue reading “Rail Report: Trainspotting my way around Shikoku, Japan (19-23 November 2016)”
Category Archives: Japan 2016 (4th)
Field Report: The Autumn Splendours of Arashiyama, Kyōto, Japan (26 November 2016)
The hills of the Arashiyama district are ablaze with colour every fall, transforming the northwestern reaches of Kyōto into a teeming hive of tourists. This particular season – out of the several autumns I’ve spent in Japan’s ancient capital – seemed the worst by far in terms of visitor overload, but it’s hard to complainContinue reading “Field Report: The Autumn Splendours of Arashiyama, Kyōto, Japan (26 November 2016)”
Field Snapshot: Kyōto National Museum, Japan (25 November 2016)
Another short and sweet snapshot post, just to tide us over until the next proper field report. Today, let’s have a look at one of my favourite hangouts in Kyōto … which, surprise surprise, happens to be a museum.
Field Snapshot: Kōdai-ji, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)
Following my customary walking route through Kyōto’s Higashiyama district, I began with Kiyomizu-dera and gradually worked my way north, pausing for the usual refreshment break at my favourite tea house. Further on into the stroll, I entered a well-known landmark for the first time in years, having skipped it a couple of times after myContinue reading “Field Snapshot: Kōdai-ji, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)”
Food Report: Tea and Traditional Sweets at Kasagi-ya (Kyōto, Japan)
The winding, hilly lanes of Kyōto’s Higashiyama district require a fair bit of effort to navigate. Fortunately, a little tea shop tucked away next to one of the area’s scenic stone-paved streets offers the perfect antidote to depleted energy levels: freshly-made Japanese sweets and a bowl of hot, frothy green tea.
Field Report: Kiyomizu-dera, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)
Kyōto’s Higashiyama district is an area I’ve grown rather fond of, and quite familiar with, through my regular visits to Japan’s former capital. Since I first came here several years ago, I’ve seen a few things change – and not always for the better. The crowds, for one, have grown so unbelievably thick as toContinue reading “Field Report: Kiyomizu-dera, Kyōto, Japan (25 November 2016)”
Field Snapshot: Yet Another Peek at the Honmaru Palace of Nagoya Castle, Japan (24 November 2016)
I’d been to Nagoya Castle a couple of times already, but there was something in particular that I was itching to come back for. And in any event, I’d gladly jump on any excuse to visit one of my favourite castles in Japan.
Field Report: The Open-air Architectural Museum that is Matsuyama, Japan (23 November 2016)
I’ve developed a habit of returning to my favourite places in Japan every now and then: partly to ensconce myself in the familiar, and partly to make fresh discoveries. Matsuyama was no exception to this pattern. And as I pounded the pavements of this corner of Shikoku one afternoon in November, I found a greatContinue reading “Field Report: The Open-air Architectural Museum that is Matsuyama, Japan (23 November 2016)”
Field Report: Ōzu Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (23 November 2016)
I’ve mentioned before how some of Japan’s long-destroyed Edo Period castles are now being reconstructed using historically faithful materials and techniques. This stands in contrast to the mid-20th century trend of building castle replicas out of concrete and fitting them with modern interiors. Last autumn, I visited one of the finest examples of the newContinue reading “Field Report: Ōzu Castle, Ehime Prefecture, Japan (23 November 2016)”
Field Report: The Kamihaga Residence, Uchiko, Japan (22 November 2016)
In my previous post, we saw some of the splendid buildings that the town of Uchiko was endowed with by its leading families, back during its heyday as a centre for sumac wax production. Now let’s take a look at one more architectural treasure, and at the same time learn about the industry that onceContinue reading “Field Report: The Kamihaga Residence, Uchiko, Japan (22 November 2016)”
Within striking distance 