Field Report: Ōhori-kōen, Fukuoka, Japan (24 March 2015)

Travellers often find themselves tempted to bloat their itineraries as much as (in)humanly possible. With time in short supply, and the tally of things to see as long as one’s fevered imagination allows, the resulting journey’s pace might more closely resemble that of a footrace than the relaxing holiday it was originally intended to be.Continue reading “Field Report: Ōhori-kōen, Fukuoka, Japan (24 March 2015)”

Field Report: Fukuoka Castle and Kōrokan, Fukuoka, Japan (23 March 2015)

Fukuoka might not be as well known for historical attractions as some other Japanese cities (like Kyōto), but it’s got a few treasures of its own – including the remnants of an Edo-period castle.

Field Report: Seodaemun Independence Park, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)

The last major stop of my winter 2014 visit to Seoul was an important monument raised to commemorate Korean independence – not from Japan, but from the nation’s centuries-old status as a tributary state of Imperial China.

Field Report: Seodaemun Prison, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)

Seoul’s grandiose palaces and gleaming museums are a vital part of its urban fabric, and all have a key part to play in preserving the rich cultural endowment left to us by previous generations. However, the historical record would not be complete if we ignored those other relics that remind us of darker times …Continue reading “Field Report: Seodaemun Prison, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)”

Field Report: Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)

Stick a spade into the ground in central Seoul and you might strike a few stones from the city’s distant past. In the case of one massive contemporary landmark, those involved in its construction ran into more than just a few stones.

Field Report: Cheongwadae Sarangchae and Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)

If things had turned out a little differently, and Korea were still a monarchy (albeit a constitutional one) in our own day and age, the king and the president would have ended up as next-door neighbours. Whether they’d have been the sort of neighbours to share a pint and swap power tools – or tradeContinue reading “Field Report: Cheongwadae Sarangchae and Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)”

Field Report: Cheonggyecheon and Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)

Seoul is a splendid monument to its own long and rich history, with various features of the urban landscape bearing witness to the march of many centuries across the Korean capital. Today, let’s combine a refreshing morning stroll with an educational history walk as we learn more about this amazing city through the relics thatContinue reading “Field Report: Cheonggyecheon and Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)”

Field Report: Korean Folk Village, Yongin, South Korea (28 September 2015)

Visiting Seoul’s lavish royal palaces might help one imagine the lifestyles of kings and aristocrats … but what was the daily grind like for mere commoners and country folk of days gone by? Today, we’re off to see a theme park with a difference: one that transports people not to the Joseon of court ceremoniesContinue reading “Field Report: Korean Folk Village, Yongin, South Korea (28 September 2015)”

Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the S-train, South Korea (28 September 2015)

Regular visitors are probably well aware that Diego is something of a railfan. That said, in spite of all the train journeys I’ve taken through the years (particularly in Japan), I’ve tended to fold those accounts into Field Reports rather than write separate posts about them. Even though that pattern will continue for most ordinaryContinue reading “Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the S-train, South Korea (28 September 2015)”