Within striking distance

Field Report: Ōhori-kōen, Fukuoka, Japan (24 March 2015)

Travellers often find themselves tempted to bloat their itineraries as much as (in)humanly possible. With time in short supply, and the tally of things to see as long as one’s fevered imagination allows, the resulting journey’s pace might more closely resemble that of a footrace than the relaxing holiday it was originally intended to be. The objectives of rest and recreation would thus be forced aside, replaced by a furious determination to tick as many places as possible off the to-see list before the last call for boarding draws a curtain across the entire endeavour.

I should know – I’ve been guilty of the same.

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Field Report: Fukuoka Castle and Kōrokan, Fukuoka, Japan (23 March 2015)

Fukuoka might not be as well known for historical attractions as some other Japanese cities (like Kyōto), but it’s got a few treasures of its own – including the remnants of an Edo-period castle.

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Field Report: Seodaemun Independence Park, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)

The last major stop of my winter 2014 visit to Seoul was an important monument raised to commemorate Korean independence – not from Japan, but from the nation’s centuries-old status as a tributary state of Imperial China.

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Field Report: Seodaemun Prison, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)

Seoul’s grandiose palaces and gleaming museums are a vital part of its urban fabric, and all have a key part to play in preserving the rich cultural endowment left to us by previous generations. However, the historical record would not be complete if we ignored those other relics that remind us of darker times … amongst the most powerfully moving of which is a former prison compound standing just beyond the western stretches of the Korean capital’s old fortress walls.

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Field Report: Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Seoul, South Korea (13 December 2014)

Stick a spade into the ground in central Seoul and you might strike a few stones from the city’s distant past. In the case of one massive contemporary landmark, those involved in its construction ran into more than just a few stones.

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Field Report: Cheongwadae Sarangchae and Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)

If things had turned out a little differently, and Korea were still a monarchy (albeit a constitutional one) in our own day and age, the king and the president would have ended up as next-door neighbours. Whether they’d have been the sort of neighbours to share a pint and swap power tools – or trade curses and accuse each other of lawn gnome theft – isn’t for me to say.

Either way, as typical respectful commoners with a salutary fear of their overlords, let’s barge in uninvited and take a peek at both of their houses.

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Field Report: Cheonggyecheon and Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul, South Korea (29 September 2015)

Seoul is a splendid monument to its own long and rich history, with various features of the urban landscape bearing witness to the march of many centuries across the Korean capital. Today, let’s combine a refreshing morning stroll with an educational history walk as we learn more about this amazing city through the relics that dot its centre.

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Field Report: Korean Folk Village, Yongin, South Korea (28 September 2015)

Visiting Seoul’s lavish royal palaces might help one imagine the lifestyles of kings and aristocrats … but what was the daily grind like for mere commoners and country folk of days gone by?

Today, we’re off to see a theme park with a difference: one that transports people not to the Joseon of court ceremonies and rarefied ritual, but to the Joseon of farmers’ traditions and the seasonal rhythms of rural life.

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Rail Report: Seoul to Suwon on the S-train, South Korea (28 September 2015)

Regular visitors are probably well aware that Diego is something of a railfan. That said, in spite of all the train journeys I’ve taken through the years (particularly in Japan), I’ve tended to fold those accounts into Field Reports rather than write separate posts about them. Even though that pattern will continue for most ordinary intra- and inter-city commutes, I shall now create separate blog entries for journeys that stand out for some reason: new or noteworthy rolling stock, scenic routes, or other attributes that warrant special attention.

Let’s begin this new series with a short inter-city hop on a South Korean tourist train.

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Field Report: National Museum of Korea, Seoul, South Korea (27 September 2015)

I had a great time at Namsangol Hanok Village, but with the sun high in the sky and the air getting a wee bit too warm for comfort, I took refuge in one of Seoul’s largest indoor attractions … deliciously air-conditioned, of course.

Oh, and did I mention that it’s free?

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