Field Report: A real teahouse and a surreal swimming pool in Kanazawa, Japan (02 July 2015)

Walk into one of Kanazawa’s beautifully preserved Edo-period teahouses in the present day, and you’re likely to emerge gently invigorated after sipping a soothing bowl of freshly whisked matcha and gazing serenely at an immaculately maintained courtyard garden. But walk into the very same place two centuries ago, and you’ll probably stumble out tipsy fromContinue reading “Field Report: A real teahouse and a surreal swimming pool in Kanazawa, Japan (02 July 2015)”

Field Report: A quiet garden stroll in Kenrokuen, Kanazawa, Japan (01 July 2015)

The last time I set my feet upon the winding paths of Kenrokuen, it was – if memory serves – a dreary, dim, cloudy day, with barely enough sunlight to see by and cold droplets of rain pelting my head at odd intervals. It was also – if memory serves – a uniquely peaceful andContinue reading “Field Report: A quiet garden stroll in Kenrokuen, Kanazawa, Japan (01 July 2015)”

Field Report: Kanazawa Castle, Japan (01 July 2015)

From the late 16th century up to the end of the Edo Period, the Lords of Kaga Domain presided over one of Japan’s wealthiest fiefdoms from within the secure precincts of Kanazawa Castle (金沢城, Kanazawa-jō). Although most of its wooden buildings and watchtowers were either destroyed by fire (particularly during a massive conflagration in 1881)Continue reading “Field Report: Kanazawa Castle, Japan (01 July 2015)”

Field Report: Summer rain and ninja secrets in Kanazawa, Japan (01 July 2015)

The city of Kanazawa is richly endowed with historic sites that hearken back to its glory days as the capital of the former Kaga Domain, one of the wealthiest fiefdoms in Edo-period Japan. It is also richly endowed with something entirely different: rain. Lots and lots of rain.